Mathias Dahlgren i Stockholm hamnade faktiskt på plats 52, och med på listan upp till världens hundra bästa så finns även svenska Frantzen/Lindeberg, Oaxen och Fäviken. På topp 100 placerar sig också ytterligare en rysk restaurang, Semifreddo, som enligt utsago ska vara mycket bra. Läs mer här i The Telegraph.
Ordet varvary betyder barbarer. Här är länken till restaurangen som ligger på denna address: 8a Strastnoy Blvd, Moscow, Russia, Tel: 8 495-229-2800 Metro Pushkinskaya.
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Jaha, nu har jag dessutom varit där och ätit... och vad ska jag säga... ja, restaurangen ligger på 7:e våningen och är uppdelad på två våningar. I den nedre delen serverar man en italiensk klassisk meny och i kväll när vi var där så fanns det även live-musik ala hotell-lobby. På övervåningen serveras en avsmakningsmeny med ca 8-10 små rätter för ca 8 000 Rubler. Dessutom kan man välja mellan ca 10 olika 'lunch-menyer' för ca 4-6 000 Rubler styck. De innehåller förrätt och varmrätt med olika teman.
Inredningen är inte helt i min smak... say no more.. skämt åsido den är närmast att likna vid en sorts 'budoir'-stil, med mönster typ överallt. I slutet av april kommer man att på andra våningen öppna en ute-veranda som nog kommer att bli trevligt - rekommenderas.
Så till maten, jag kan inte riktigt säga att den var värd priset. Hans ide är ju att använda rysk mat och utgå från ryska ingredienser men göra det sofistikerat och modernt. Det ser fint ut och smakar helt ok gott, men om jag ska vara ärlig så smakar det ganska vanligt, som vanlig rysk mat men med mycket snygg presentation och snygga detaljer. Men visst äter man gott, men kanske nådde restaurangen inte riktigt upp till våra förväntningar...
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Länk till San Pellegrino Awards.
Länk till restaurangens Facebook sida.
Några andra recensioner:
For all the unmitigated drama of Moscow's high-end dining rooms, the fireworks generally rest in the province of decor. Varvary aims to change that. Chef Anatoly Komm's 32-seat molecular gastronomy experiment is a radical reimagining of Russian cuisine.Taking several pages from Ferran Adrià, Komm foams, gels, and emulsifies the country's rustic comfort food into textural revelations. Humble black bread is served with a silver spoon holding a sunflower-oil gel (a process, former geophysicist Komm points out, first employed by the Soviets to create mock caviar). Komm's take on borscht is a riot of unexpected temperatures and shapes: The soup's traditional garlic-bread accompaniment is reborn via slivers of crisp beets dotted with garlic ice cream. The wild three-hour restaurant ride will run you almost $300 per person without booze, but if you make one splurge in Moscow, this should be it.
Read More http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/diningtravel/restaurants/topmoscowrestaurants#ixzz1K32sQDkL
Så här skriver en person på tripadvisor om restaurangen:
Date of review: 14 Apr 2010
Chef Anatoly Komm is a former fashion designer. Keeping this in mind and noting that Anatoly spent quite some time on dining area instead of the kitchen one couldn't avoid thought he is nowadays more an image of a restaurant while food is taken care by some other of the 18 cooks in this restaurant, perhaps an Italian chef who also visited some guests.
Set menu of 12+2 courses (7500 rubles) were not too much to eat, both sizes and pace was taken care well. Wine menu was extensive, and extraordinarily expensive. Average prize of a red wine was about 20 000 rubles (about 500 euros), although there were some under 5000 rubles also. You can get two whites and two reds by a glass. Barbaresco Albino Rocca ('02 if I remember it right) was 9900 rubles. Sommelier knew his business well.
Varvary is a "molecule-kitchen" restaurant. As many of us know, it is something not an easy task. While Alinea in Chigago, Fat Duck and obviously El Bulli (although I have not an honour to visit it yet) have made it an art, Varvary belongs to the cast of most other molecular diners. Varvary did succeed few dishes extremely well, for example beetroot maki rolls and "clear Bloody Mary". Most were "just okay" and some fairly disgusting, such as ultra greesy potato chips with scampi. Three desserts but no cheese was kind of a strange resolution.
This is absolutely a good restaurant, I would expext it to be among Moscow's best, but unfortunataly prices are set so high that value for money is poor.
Set menu of 12+2 courses (7500 rubles) were not too much to eat, both sizes and pace was taken care well. Wine menu was extensive, and extraordinarily expensive. Average prize of a red wine was about 20 000 rubles (about 500 euros), although there were some under 5000 rubles also. You can get two whites and two reds by a glass. Barbaresco Albino Rocca ('02 if I remember it right) was 9900 rubles. Sommelier knew his business well.
Varvary is a "molecule-kitchen" restaurant. As many of us know, it is something not an easy task. While Alinea in Chigago, Fat Duck and obviously El Bulli (although I have not an honour to visit it yet) have made it an art, Varvary belongs to the cast of most other molecular diners. Varvary did succeed few dishes extremely well, for example beetroot maki rolls and "clear Bloody Mary". Most were "just okay" and some fairly disgusting, such as ultra greesy potato chips with scampi. Three desserts but no cheese was kind of a strange resolution.
This is absolutely a good restaurant, I would expext it to be among Moscow's best, but unfortunataly prices are set so high that value for money is poor.
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